I was fortunate to live in Germany for several years and take in some new traditions and memories I will never forget. Southern Bavaria in winter is a dreamscape of snowy mountains, Alpine chalets, and fantastical castles shrouded in fog. During the Christmas season, every city and town opens its yearly Christkindlmarkt, a festive holiday market with local food and drink, gifts, souvenirs, entertainment, great bargains, and historical traditions.

If you are in Germany for the first time, you could take in the big city sights of Munich or Garmish-Partenkirchen, but the attractions there are more likely to cater to tourists and lack the authenticity. To be sure, you will still have a wonderful experience, but the locals prefer to go to their home town or a nearby village and this is where we're headed.

While you're strolling around, make sure one hand is holding a piping hot cone of sugar-roasted almonds ("Gebrannte Mandeln") and a mug of spiced mulled wine ("Glühwein") in the other. Smell the traditional breads and pastries mingling with the pine-scented air from garlands strung around the marketplace. Watch jugglers and magicians, listen to musicians busking on every corner, and all under the frosty-clear alpine sky.

Since you've decided to stay in a small town, stick to a local Bed and Breakfast. Many houses simply hang out a shingle declaring vacancy ("Zimmer frei"), and in addition to private and comfy accommodations, you will be treated to a full German breakfast each morning. This usually includes cold meats, cheeses, boiled eggs, fresh-baked buns and pretzels, jams, muesli, and proper German coffee. Many rooms can be booked for 20€ per person in the smaller towns, and also offer weekly rates.

After such a hearty start, you'll be wanting to take a long walk. Explore the cobbled streets with lined with quaint shops or head into the nearby forest for a longer stroll. In December, you can expect the weather to be around freezing with cool mists and fat lazy snowflakes in the evenings.

For lunch, head into a local biergarten for a pair of Weißwürstl (Munich-style white sausages) and a foamy wheat beer with a side of kraut and soft pretzel. It's not uncommon for waitresses to be dressed in dirndl, and even if you speak some German you might be hard-pressed to decipher the Bavarian dialect. You will be pleasantly surprised, however, to discover how many Germans speak English and are extremely polite and helpful.


After you've done the cultural round, head over to the slopes for some fantastic skiing. The big resorts of Garmish-Partenkirchen (Germany) and Austrian Innsbruck and Kitzbühl offer world-class runs, but don't ignore the smaller outfits that offer lower prices and cheap accommodations. Most places have mountaintop chalets with cafeteria services; imagine yourself sitting on their deck in the warm Alpine sunshine overlooking the mountain peaks swimming in a sea of fog and clouds. Bring your sunblock!


There is something for everyone in Bavaria - great food, culture, and entertainment will guarantee a Christmas to remember.