New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2010
With the economy still wavering, the fall 2010 collections as a whole proved to be less fantasy and more practicality. But not to discourage, each designer still provided enough drama to make Bryant Park’s last hurrah a memorable one.
The FabricThe biggest trend of the week was fur. From Marc By Marc Jacobs' oversized hats to Badgley Mischka’s gorgeous vests, brown or black (and blue courtesy of Proenza Schouler) dominated the runway. Also proving longevity, black leather was once again in the spotlight (demonstrated best by Derek Lam’s collection of statement outerwear), as were oversized chunky knits (featured by Michael Kors). But it wasn’t all about the heavy fabrics, BCBG lightened things up by creating a layered look with thinner fabrics.
The CutWhether you prefer a more casual look like the Michael Kors collection or something Oscar-worthy from Marchesa, plunging necklines were a must for fall. And as the neckline gets lower so does the hem line - keep your minis in the closet ladies, because the skirt is going serious and sophisticated keeping it to the knee or below (Rachel Roy). Also noted, Carolina Herrera and others helped move shoulders away from bold and dramatic, allowing them to become fuller and softer.
The ColorWhile black continued as the catwalk staple, next fall expect to see a lot of light neutrals. Max Azria and Narciso Rodriguez stuck to that palette alone, while others proved that bright hues can definitely make a statement like Nanette Lepore’s heavy use of orangey red, and Phillip Lim’s use of blue and purple.
The PrintNot all designers stuck to solids: many had fun with prints and it definitely stood out. Plaids and soft florals still had a presence (proven by rag & bone, Rodarte and Nanette Lepore), and Nicole Miller made beautiful use of a more subtle and sophisticated cityscape print. Still big risks were taken, by the likes of Proenza Schouler’s graffiti inspired collection and Anna Sui’s fierce and fun mix of complex patterns.
by Katie Coristine
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