Myth: Once past the horrors of puberty, your skin will snap out of its pimply funk and start behaving.

Fact: Most of us have just a short window of time with flawlessly smooth skin before the drama resumes. The battle with fine lines, adult acne, and sunspots will begin sooner than you'd like - and that's when you call for backup: professional intervention.

Dr. Sandy Skotnicki-Grant of the Bay Dermatology Centre in Toronto gave us her best advice for when DIY home facials are simply not enough.

ChickAdvisor:
First off, why does the skin start misbehaving again well beyond puberty?

Dr Sandy:
The reason many people have lovely skin is that the accumulative effects of sun and smoking have not begun to show. I often tell teenagers and those in their twenties that what they did before the age of 15 will become important as they age. There is a lag period between the damage from sun and smoking and the visible changes…usually around 20 years. It is never too late to wear sunscreen. Lasers, Retinol, Retin A, Vitamin C and ablative lasers can help restore and diminish some of the changes our skin accumulates over the years.

ChickAdvisor:
Yes, we should have known that basting in Baby Oil during our teens would come back to haunt us! So when sunspots surface, what do you suggest?

Dr Sandy:
The most effective means of treating Solar lentigo (sun spots, or flat non raised brown spots on the face and body) is with a laser or light source directed to a wavelength that targets melanin. In my clinic we use Intense Pulsed Light which after 4-6 treatments removes sun spots. It is less harsh on the skin as there is no exfoliative process going on with the laser.

ChickAdvisor:
Does the same advice apply to changes in skin tone and color? Why does the area around the mouth appear to be a different shade than the rest of the face?

Dr Sandy:
Ingredients which increase skin turnover will help with skin pigmentation and tone. Retin A, Retinol, Glycolic acid are ingredients which will help decrease brown pigmentation. Chemical peels and Microdermabrasion also can even out pigmentation. If you have redness, peels and microdermabrasion will not be helpful, so lasers that target redness are the best option.

Yellowing around the mouth is due to significant solar damage to the skin resulting in Solar Elastosis. This will need a more drastic approach with ablative laser technologies like Fractioned laser.

ChickAdvisor:
What can you tell us about Adult Acne?

Dr Sandy:
Adult Acne is very common and some days as a Dermatologist I see more adult woman with acne than teenagers. Adult Acne is very hormonal, driven by hormonal fluctuations. Many woman tell me they get most of their acne papules before their menstrual cycle. For this reason the Birth Control Pill is one of the most effective ways to treat acne in your 20's, 30's and even 40's.

The Bay Dermatology Centre was the first in Canada to offer the Intraceuticals treatment, commonly referred to as the Oxygen Facial

ChickAdvisor:
As someone who does not look her age, what is your best secret to younger, healthier looking skin?

Dr Sandy:
If you eat well, exercise, and I often suggest yoga or meditation to bring about relaxation - this translates to good health. If you are healthy and feel good it gives you great self esteem, which ultimately translates to beauty. As for the science, above all wear sunscreen, use an acid on the face such as Retin A or Glycolic and use Vitamin C topically. These are the three ingredients with the most scientific proof to help reduce the signs of aging.

Have you tried any of these treatments on your problem skin?

by Claire Rahn

Bay Dermatology Centre